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Glueless Tongue and Groove Join System
Before installing a laminated floor you should consider the following:
• What type of project is this? (new building, replacing existing floor, covering existing floor)
• What quality of laminate flooring are you looking for? (Grade31 or 32/ AC3 or AC4)
• What kind of laminate flooring are you looking for?
• What type of flooring or subfloor do you currently have?
• Where would you like to install your new flooring? (bedroom, bathroom, kitchen, stairs, etc)
• Are there problems on the current floor or subfloor? (cracked concrete, flaking, moisture)
• It is important to assess your flooring needs before engaging in any kind of flooring remodel,
and this assessment should include the amount of foot traffic the intended area will incur.
1) Preparation of Subfloor
Consider what subfloor you intend to use. The beauty of a floating
floor is in its adaptability. A floating floor can be placed over
nearly any subfloor, including concrete, wood subfloor, or existing
flooring. The floating panels can mask some irregularities in the
substrate, such as embossing in vinyl flooring, but any major dips,
dents, or lumps should be eliminated before installing the panels. If
concrete is to be used, verify the dryness year round, and if unsure,
apply a concrete sealer prior to the installation.
To test for humidity if you don't have a moisture meter available, tape
a 10cm x 10cm section of clear plastic to the concrete slab, forming an
airtight seal. If condensation or discoloration appears on plastic
after 24-48 hours, the moisture content is likely too high for most
wood products.
2) Selecting the best laminate for the job
It is important to select a floor that fits your needs. You will need to decide on the following:
• How high will the foot traffic be in the area you would like to install the laminate
• How long would you like your floor to last
• What is the humidity like in the space
• What colour would best match your décor
• How would you like the floor to sound when walked on (depends on underlay used)
• And of course, what budget are you working with per m2
3) Measuring up
When measuring for a layout, be sure to take into consideration cut
outs and unevenness of a room. For example, in a 4 x 5m room with a
1x1.2m cut out, the area of the floor surface is 18.8m2. Be careful not
to neglect closet spaces, though, as they will need to be covered as
well. When sourcing materials, it is generally good practice to buy a
10 % average on all materials - meaning if you need 100 m2, buy 110m2.
This is done to insure that there is plenty of material in case of
mid-work mishaps, or any damaged or discoloured pieces. Additionally, it
is a good idea to keep several pieces after the job is completed, in
case anything should happen down the road that would require a repair
of the floor. In some cases, a manufacturer might discontinue a type or
color of floating floor, leaving its prior customers scrambling to find
replacement pieces during a repair.
Useful measurements to remember:
Standard door = 0.833m
Double door = 1.2m or 2.2m or 2.4m
Standard passage = 1m
Wardrobe or kitchen cupboard depth = 0.6m
4) Selecting the best profiles for the job
There are a number of profiles that come into play when assessing an area in which to install a floating floor.
Transition/ T-Profile – Used to join laminate in places
such as doorways, or join laminate and any
other floor of the same
height.
Reducer/ Adaptation Profile – Used to join laminate onto another type of floor of a different height.
End profile – Used to stop the laminate
floor against a vertical edge such as a sliding
door or some types of
built-in cupboards.
Quarter round – This is mainly used to cover
expansion gap between laminate and
cupboards or around the outside of
existing skirting.
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